Carnation

         
         The chemical that is responsible for natural carnation fragrance is almost solely Eugenol. Some perfumers regard that carnation in addition to its clove notes has a background of Rose, others jasmin, orchid or even muguet.
        However when we smell the blossoms a soft powdery character is evident. To acheive this we may use relatives of Eugenol, Acetyl iso-Eugenol, Benzyl iso-Eugenol, Methyl Eugenol (now restricted by IFRA guidelines) etc.
        To give a floralness to our creation we might use a base from any of the schools of thought, but a little Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, Hydroxycitronellal complement these and help with the petal waxiness. Benzyl benzoate is a natural component of the Carnation fragrance and although almost odourless does in fact impart a deep sweetness if not overdone. Small amounts of Heliotropin and the Oriental-vanilla notes of Benzoin Resinoid Siam blend well in the bottom notes.
        Carnation is the central theme of Nina Ricci's masterpeice "L'air du Temps" where Eugenol, Benzyl Salicylate and Musk Ketone form the central accord.
 
Carnation
. 
.............................................
%
Remarks +  (overdose effect)
Basics   
Eugenol
20-75 
Carnation is largely just this (clove)
.
Modifiers   
Spicy -
 
 
Clove Bud Oil
2-4
fresher note 
Iso eugenol
3-5
floral clove note (some grades smokey)
. 
Floral - 
 
 different schools of thought 
Rose Notes
 qs
for a rose background
Jasmin Notes
 qs
for a jasmin background
Ylang Ylang Oil
3-7
a little helps the flowery character
Amyl Salicylate
5-10
for an orchid background
.
Blenders   
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
10-30 
flowery rose 
Hydroxycitronellal
5-10 
light floral 
Benzyl Benzoate 10-30
occurs in natural carnation (fatty)
 .
Fixatives   
Heliotropin
1-5
Sweet flowery background
Benzoin Resinoid
1-5
Richer sweet oriental background 
Benzyl iso Eugenol
3-8
Soft carnation note
.
Novel Effects  
All Eugenol esters
qs 
support eugenol for smooth effect 
Carnation Absolute
0.5-2
sometimes offered
Benzyl Salicylate
5-30 
forms smooth accord with eugenol 
Musk Ketone
1-5 
fixative, performs well with eugenol 
Phenyl Ethyl salicylate
5-10 
flowery character 
Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin
0.5-1
sweet powdery character 
Cyclamen Aldehyde
0.5-2 
flower petal background 
cis-3-Hexenol and all esters
0.1-2 
for natural green effect 
Terpineol
1-5 
depth (chemical, pine) 
.NB. These recommendations are for guidance and hints - do not be afraid to try as many different materials as possible
 
 
 
 
 
Carnation Formulation Example
Eugenol 
iso Eugenol 
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol 
Ylang Ylang Oil No. 2 
Benzyl Benzoate 
Benzyl Salicylate 
Benzyl iso Eugenol 
Musk Ketone 
Hydroxycitronellal 
Terpineol 
Vanillin
Benzoin Siam Light (PerfumersWorld)
Palmarosa Oil
Rose Otto Bulgarian
34.00 
3.00 
21.00 
3.00 
5.00 
13.00 
5.00 
3.00 
5.00 
3.00 
0.30 
2.50 
2.00 
0.20 
100.00 
 
 
Carnation From The Perfumery Training Kit
Spice Fleuressence
Muguet Fleuressence
Rose Fleuressence
Vanilla Fleuressence
Musk Fleuressence
80.00 
10.00 
5.00 
2.00 
3.00 
100.00 
 


 
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