Glossary
The definitions here are geared towards their general usage in the perfumery industry. Comments and discussions are invited from readers about words they would like to see included, clarified or alternative definitions given.
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A. is for Aliphatic (see Aldehyde)
Absolute. Absolutes are regarded as the strongest aromatic product from the starting material. Not strictly essential oils as they are obtained through extraction with volatile solvents such as hexane which dissolves the volatile oil components plus colour and waxes. The resultant concrete is a solid. The volatile oil is then extracted from the concrete using alcohol. Absolutes are usually darker coloured than essential oils as non-volatile colour is also extracted.
Accord. An Accord is the perfumery equivalent of a Chord in music. A blend of 2 smells that produces a 3rd different and distinctive smell. An Accord may be a simple mixture as already suggested or may consist of many materials. It particularly applies to where each component material is in balance and harmony with each other material so that one no single component can be detected. An accord is usually a small part of a perfumes structure just as a Chord is music acts as a single note in a symphony.
Agrumen. = Citrus
Alcohol. The word used by itself usually refers to Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol the main solvent used to carry perfume for extraits, colognes. When in a chemical name refers to the chemical group R-OH.
Aldehyde. The chemical group R- CHO. The word by itself usually refers to shorter (C6-C12) straight chain (aliphatic) aldehydes used in perfumery.
Aldehydic. A perfumery term that indicates a smell displays the character of the shorter (C6-C12) straight chained (aliphatic) aldehydes. The characteristic smell is revealed in the Greek origin of the word (anointing oil). Aldehydes display a fatty note. Aldehydic perfumes Include Chanel No.5 and many versions of Lux soap.
Amber. A heavy, full bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note.
Animal Products. See Ambergris, Castoreum, Civet and Musk in The Perfumer's Workbook
Animalic. Animalic notes may be best described as Faecal and unpleasant. However, experienced perfumers recognise that in extreme dilution or clever combination they often display a very pleasant note. Civet Absolute is very faecal at 100% but at 0.1% gives a Lily Of The Valley note. Good use of animalic notes gives a perfume a natural character.
Anosmia. The inability to smell. Total anosmia can occur as the result of injury or illness but is relatively rare. Partial Anosmia is a common phenomenon where people have selective insensitivity or blindness to particular materials smells or groups of smells. e.g. Benzyl Salicylate and Macro cyclic Musks are common examples. Some people on first exposure to a new material may claim not to be able to smell it but after several exposures their ability to smell it improves. e.g. Lyral. see "Induced Temporary Selective Anosmia"
Apocrine Sweat Glands. Type of sweat gland which contributes to the sexual and body scent in humans and which the excretions from which can influence the odour characteristics of an applied perfume.
Aroma Chemicals. Chemicals that have a smell and/or taste and are used in perfumes or flavours. Should note be confused with the term Aromatic Chemicals that refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds.
Aromachology. The science, coined by the Olfactory Research Fund, dedicated to the study of the interrelationship between psychology and aroma.
Aromatic. Strictly speaking refers to the Benzene ring structure found in many organic compounds. However the term in perfumery refers to the rich aroma displayed by Balsamic notes.
Aromatherapy. Therapy with aroma. The art and science of using essential oils (although in theory any aromatic substance could be used) to heal common ailments and complaints. Can particularly helpful with stress or emotionally trigger problems such as insomnia and headaches. There is little clinical data to back up its efficacy in serious medical problems. The term was actually coined by a French chemist, R.M. Gattefosse.
Attar (Otto). From the ancient Persian word "to smell sweet." Attar or otto refers to essential oil obtained by distillation and, in particular, that of the Bulgarian rose, an extremely precious perfumery material.
Axon. Part of a nerve cell that conducts impulses away from the cell.
Ayurvedic. The ancient Hindu art of medicine and of prolonging life.
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